San Antonio de Areco: The Gaucho Day Trip Every British Family Loves

San Antonio de Areco is the kind of place that makes you understand why Argentina loves its countryside. It is a small town of 25,000 people on the pampa, 113 km northwest of Buenos Aires. Two hours driving. A world away culturally.

The gauchos here are real. The silver artisans are fourth-generation. The estancias serve asado that makes Buenos Aires parrillas look like fast food. And the pace of life is so slow that your children will ask if the town has Wi-Fi (it does, but nobody seems to use it).

Getting there

By car: Ruta 8 northwest from Buenos Aires. 2 hours, toll road. Easy drive, well-signposted. This is the best option for a day trip with kids.

By bus: Chevallier or Pullman from Retiro bus station. 2 hours, ARS 5,000-8,000 each way. Practical but limits your flexibility once there.

By remis/taxi: bookable through your hotel or via apps. USD 60-100 each way. Good for groups.

What to do

Walk the town

Areco's centre is a grid of colonial streets around a main plaza. The buildings are 19th-century gaucho-era architecture: low, whitewashed, with wrought-iron balconies. The river (Río Areco) runs through town with a beautiful old bridge (Puente Viejo) that is the town's postcard view.

Walk along Alsina and Matheu (the main streets) and browse the artisan shops. Silver work (platería) is Areco's speciality. Gaucho knives, belt buckles, mate bombillas, and jewellery, all handmade by local silversmiths. Prices are fair. Quality is exceptional.

Visit an estancia

The main attraction for families. Estancias (ranches) around Areco offer "día de campo" (country day) packages:

• Horseback riding across the pampa (all levels, children welcome from age 4-5)
• Asado cooked by a real gaucho over open fire
• Folk music and dance performances
• Mate ceremony with the host family
• Horse shows (doma, gaucho skills)

Top estancias:

• Estancia La Bamba — the most famous, restored 1830s estancia. Premium.
• Estancia El Ombú — family-friendly, excellent asado, more affordable.
• Estancia La Cinacina — smaller, intimate, good for families with young children.

Cost: USD 60-120 per adult for a full day including lunch. Children usually half-price.

Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes

A museum dedicated to gaucho culture, housed in a restored estancia building. Named after the author of Don Segundo Sombra, the great gaucho novel (set in Areco). Small, charming, educational for kids. Free or ARS 2,000 entry.

The Festival de la Tradición (November)

If you can time your visit for the second week of November, the annual Festival de la Tradición is Argentina's biggest gaucho celebration. Rodeo-style riding competitions, folk music, traditional dance, artisan fair, and the entire town in gaucho dress. Extraordinary. Book accommodation months ahead.

Eating

Areco's restaurants serve classic pampa cuisine:

• Almacén de Ramos Generales — the town's most famous restaurant. In a restored general store. Excellent empanadas and grilled meats. Reserve for weekends.
• La Esquina de Merti — traditional, family-run, generous portions.
• Paradores along the river — simple restaurants with outdoor tables overlooking the water. Perfect for a lazy Sunday lunch.

Overnight option

If a day trip feels rushed (it can, especially with children), stay overnight:

• Estancia La Bamba — sleep in a historic estancia. USD 200-400/night.
• Paradores Draghi — boutique hotel in town. USD 80-150/night.
• Airbnb — several houses and apartments. USD 40-80/night.

Worth reading next

• Tigre Day Trip Guide
• Mendoza Wine Weekend
• Colonia Uruguay Day Trip