A Weekend in Mendoza: Wine, Mountains, and Why Everyone Falls in Love

Every British expat in Buenos Aires ends up in Mendoza sooner or later, and they all come back saying the same thing: why didn't I go sooner?

Mendoza sits at the eastern foot of the Andes, about 1,000km west of Buenos Aires. The city itself is pleasant and manageable — 1 million metro area, clean streets, serious sunshine — but the real draw is what surrounds it: vineyards stretching to the base of snow-capped mountains that look like they've been photoshopped onto the horizon.

Getting There

Flights: Aerolíneas Argentinas, Flybondi, and JetSmart all fly Buenos Aires (Aeroparque or Ezeiza) to Mendoza. Flight time: about 2 hours. Prices vary wildly — ARS 30,000–90,000 return (£20–60) if you book early, double or triple for last-minute.

Bus: 12–14 hours overnight from Retiro bus station. Cama (lie-flat) class is comfortable enough and costs about ARS 30,000–50,000 (£20–33). Good for budget travel and if you don't mind arriving groggy.

Driving: About 12–13 hours on Ruta 7. The road is good (mostly autopista). Only worth it if you want the car in Mendoza for bodega-hopping.

The Wine Regions

Mendoza's wine country divides into three main areas:

Maipú: The closest to Mendoza city (20 minutes). Entry-level wine tourism — several bodegas clustered together, some reachable by bicycle. Good for a casual half-day. Start here if it's your first visit.

Luján de Cuyo: The established premium region (30 minutes from city). Catena Zapata, Achaval Ferrer, Norton — the big names are here. Tastings are more polished, the wine is more serious, and the views of the Andes are closer.

Uco Valley: The furthest (90 minutes) and the most stunning. Higher altitude, cooler temperatures, the newest and most adventurous winemaking. Salentein, Zuccardi (their Valle de Uco facility is an architectural marvel), and smaller boutique producers. If you only have time for one region and you care about wine, this is the one.

What a Wine Tasting Looks Like

Cost: ARS 8,000–25,000 (£5–17) per person at most bodegas. Many include food pairings — cheese, charcuterie, sometimes a full lunch. Compared to Napa Valley or Burgundy, this is absurdly cheap for the quality.

Booking: Most bodegas require reservations. Check their websites or book through a tour operator. Some accept walk-ins during off-peak times but don't count on it.

What you'll drink: Malbec is the flagship grape — Argentina's calling card. But Mendoza also produces excellent Cabernet Sauvignon, Bonarda, Torrontés (a floral white), and blends. The better bodegas will walk you through 4–6 wines over an hour or so.

Buying wine: Bodega prices are often lower than retail. If you find something you love, buy a case. Shipping wine back to Buenos Aires is easy — most bodegas offer delivery.

Beyond Wine

The Andes: You can see them from the city, but getting into them is another experience entirely. Ruta 7 heads west through the Villavicencio mountain pass (dramatic switchbacks, condor territory) toward Aconcagua — the highest peak in the Americas at 6,961m. You don't need to climb it; you can drive to the base camp viewpoint.

Rafting: The Mendoza River has excellent whitewater rafting (October–March). Operators in Potrerillos (45 minutes from the city) run half-day trips for about £20–30.

The city: Mendoza city is walkable and leafy — wide avenues, tree-lined plazas, outdoor restaurants. The central market (Mercado Central) has great food stalls. Av. Arístides Villanueva is the restaurant and bar strip — lively on weekends.

The Practical Weekend

Friday: Evening flight from Buenos Aires. Arrive Mendoza, check in, dinner on Arístides Villanueva.

Saturday: Wine region tour. Either hire a car (if you have a designated driver) or book a guided tour (most include pickup, 3–4 bodegas, lunch). Full day — leave at 9am, back by 6pm. Dinner reservation somewhere good: Siete Fuegos (Francis Mallmann's restaurant at The Vines Resort) if you're splashing out, or any of the parrillas on Arístides for something relaxed.

Sunday: Morning at the market or a walk in Parque General San Martín (a huge, beautiful park on the city's western edge). Afternoon flight back to Buenos Aires.

Budget: Flights £30–60, accommodation £40–80/night, wine tours £20–40, meals £10–20 each. A full weekend runs £150–300 per person, all in. For a wine destination of this calibre, that's remarkable value.