Salta and the Argentine Northwest: The Trip You Keep Putting Off

I kept putting off Salta for my first two years in Argentina. Too busy, too far, could always go next month. When I finally went, I was angry at myself for waiting. It's genuinely extraordinary.

Getting there

Fly: 2 hours from Buenos Aires. Aerolíneas Argentinas, LATAM, and Flybondi all fly the route. Book early for prices around USD 80-200 return. Salta's Aeropuerto Internacional Martín Miguel de Güemes is 10km from the city centre.

Bus: Around 20 hours from Buenos Aires. Comfortable overnight buses exist but this is a significant time investment. Flying is strongly recommended.

Minimum time needed

Five days is ideal — two in Salta city, one day trip to Cafayate, one to the Quebrada. Three days is possible but rushed.

Salta city

The casco histórico (historic centre) is the most intact colonial city centre in Argentina. The pink baroque Cathedral, the CABILDO (colonial town hall), the San Francisco church (extraordinary polychrome facade), and the neoclassical streets around Plaza 9 de Julio form a genuinely beautiful historic core.

Salta's food is distinct from Buenos Aires. Empanadas salteñas are considered the best in the country (baked, juicy, spiced differently from porteño empanadas). Locro (corn and meat stew), humita (sweetcorn tamale), and tamales are all local specialities.

The TelecabinaSalta: Cable car up to Cerro San Bernardo. Good views over the city.

Cafayate (3 hours south)

Argentina's high-altitude wine region. The white Torrontés grape thrives here at 1,700m above sea level. The wine is unlike any other in Argentina — floral, aromatic, unique.

Several bodegas offer tastings: Bodega Piattelli, El Esteco, and Domingo Molina are the most visitor-friendly. Budget a full day for the drive, tastings, and the extraordinary Quebrada de las Conchas canyon on the return road.

Quebrada de Humahuaca (3 hours north)

A UNESCO World Heritage Site — a dramatic river valley carved through stratified rock in reds, yellows, and greens. The journey north passes through Purmamarca (the village of seven colours), Tilcara (Inca fortification, good museums), and Humahuaca (the market town at the top of the valley).

Altitude: Purmamarca sits at 2,192m, Humahuaca at 2,939m. Altitude sickness (soroche) is possible, especially for those arriving from sea-level Buenos Aires. Take it slowly on the first day, avoid alcohol, and consider altitude sickness medication if you're sensitive.

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