Flores: Buenos Aires Off the Expat Trail
Flores is one of Buenos Aires's most vibrant and underrated barrios. Not many expats live here — which makes it more interesting. Here's what it's really like.
Rosie CarterWriter · Palermo, Buenos Aires
When I mention Flores to other British expats, I usually get a blank look. It doesn't appear on the standard neighbourhood shortlist. Articles about moving to Buenos Aires tend to skip from Caballito straight to Almagro and forget that west of those barrios lies something genuinely different.
Flores is one of Buenos Aires's most populous and commercially active neighbourhoods. It has a historic church on the main plaza (where Pope Francis grew up), a street market that sprawls for blocks, and the most diverse food scene outside Palermo.
The feel of the neighbourhood
Flores is primarily commercial and residential. Avenida Rivadavia, the spine of the barrio, is lined with shops, street vendors, and the noise of a working Buenos Aires neighbourhood that hasn't been gentrified. It serves a working-class and lower-middle-class Buenos Aires population alongside a significant Bolivian and Peruvian immigrant community that has transformed the food landscape here.
Why I think expats should spend time here
Not necessarily live — though rental prices are genuinely low compared to Palermo (30-50% cheaper for similar flat sizes). But visiting and eating here is one of the most genuine Buenos Aires experiences available.
The food: Bolivian and Peruvian restaurants around Flores serve food you won't find in Palermo at any price. Salteñas (Bolivian empanadas with broth inside), ceviche, anticuchos (skewered beef heart marinated in ají panca), lomo saltado. Look for places full of Bolivian or Peruvian families and you'll eat excellently for very little money.
Mercado Spinetto: A covered market in Flores with excellent produce, meat, and fish. Very local crowd.
Parque Chacabuco (adjacent barrio): A large green space with sports facilities, a running track, and a relaxed weekend atmosphere.
Getting there
Subte line A from the city centre towards La Salada direction. Journey from Plaza de Mayo: around 25 minutes.
Living in Flores
The neighbourhood is safe in the main commercial areas and residential streets around the plaza. Rent for a two-bedroom flat: USD 500-800 per month — significantly below the USD 800-1,400 you'd pay for equivalent space in Palermo.
Schools in the area are Argentine-curriculum schools rather than British or international curriculum. Worth checking if that matters for your family.
Worth reading next
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Flores a good neighbourhood to live in Buenos Aires?
It's affordable and authentic but lacks expat infrastructure. Good for those wanting a genuine Buenos Aires experience at significantly lower cost.
Is Flores safe in Buenos Aires?
The main commercial areas and residential streets around the plaza are safe with normal precautions. Standard big-city awareness applies.
What is there to see in Flores Buenos Aires?
The San José de Flores church (where Pope Francis attended as a child), the Rivadavia street market, and excellent Bolivian and Peruvian restaurants.
Sources & Links
Further reading — legal & visa
We cover the lifestyle side. When it comes to visas, residency, and the paperwork — these guides from Lucero Legal are the most thorough we've found.
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