Food Shopping in Buenos Aires: Supermarkets, Markets, and British Staples

Shopping for food here is one of the genuinely enjoyable parts of expat life — once you get over the initial confusion. The supermarket layout is different, some familiar products don't exist, and the quality of fresh produce at markets is better than almost anything I found in the UK.

The main supermarket chains

Jumbo: The premium option. Part of the Chilean Cencosud group, Jumbo has the widest selection of imported goods, better meat counters, and more international products. The Alto Palermo and Dot locations are the most comprehensive. Slightly more expensive.

Disco: Consistent quality, reasonable range, found across most barrios. My default for everyday shopping. Better imported cheese and wine selection than Carrefour.

Carrefour: The French chain here is more mid-market than its European equivalent. Large stores at Palermo and Caballito. Good for staples and own-brand products.

Coto: The Argentine discount chain. Excellent value for basics — cooking oil, pasta, rice, cleaning products. Fresh produce is hit or miss.

Día (and similar): Neighbourhood mini-supermarkets. Useful for daily essentials. Not for serious shopping.

Ferias and markets

The weekend feria (street market) is where I buy most of my fruit and vegetables. Every barrio has one, usually on Saturday and Sunday morning.

Feria de Productores in Palermo (Saturday, Dorrego and Cabrera area): Direct from producers. Excellent quality heirloom tomatoes, seasonal vegetables, artisan cheese, honey, and preserves.

Mercado de San Telmo: The covered market has been there since 1897. A mix of food stalls, antiques, and restaurants. Good for olive oil, dried herbs, artisan products, and atmosphere.

Mercado del Progreso (Caballito): A local market, less touristy than San Telmo, excellent fresh fish counter and a good butcher.

Feria de Mataderos: Sunday only, far west of the city. Worth the trip once. Gaucho culture, traditional food, crafts, and a proper Argentine experience.

Finding British staples

This requires some detective work but it's more achievable than people think.

Marmite: Available at specialty import shops in Palermo and Belgrano. Search 'productos importados' on Google Maps near your barrio. Expect to pay three to four times the UK price.

Cheddar and other British cheeses: The Argentine cheese industry is good but different. Imported British cheeses appear occasionally at Jumbo and specialty cheese shops. The local equivalent is 'queso en barra' — a mild yellow cheese. Not cheddar but acceptable in sandwiches.

PG Tips / Yorkshire Tea: Some import shops carry British tea. Otherwise, Argentine Twinings (locally produced under licence) is available in most supermarkets.

Cadbury chocolate: Appears in Jumbo occasionally. More reliably at dedicated import shops. Local Argentine chocolate (Milka, Bon o Bon) is surprisingly good.

Heinz Baked Beans: Difficult to find and expensive. The Argentine canned bean options are good alternatives — porotos or alubias in tomato sauce.

British expat Facebook groups (Brits in Buenos Aires) keep running threads on where to find specific products. Worth joining and asking there.

Practical shopping tips

• Bring your own bags. Plastic bags are charged or unavailable.
• Weigh produce before checkout at some larger stores — staff at the produce section attach a price sticker. Easy to miss if you're used to just picking things up.
• Precio cuidado: government-capped prices on basic goods. Look for the label — it means you're paying a controlled price.
• Loyalty cards: Jumbo and Disco have apps that unlock significant discounts. Worth downloading.
• Pay with card, not cash, at supermarkets. The cashier will sometimes ask if you want to pay in cuotas (instalments) — just say "no, en una cuota" unless you want to spread payments.

Worth reading next

• Brunch Spots in Buenos Aires
• Coffee Culture in Buenos Aires
• Argentina vs UK Cost Comparison