Fernet, Mate, and Malbec: The Drinks You Need to Understand

Argentina has a drinking culture, but it's structured differently from the UK's. The pub-on-Friday binge doesn't really exist here. Instead, there's a daily rhythm of different drinks for different occasions, and understanding this rhythm is one of the more enjoyable parts of cultural integration.

Mate

For related context, see British Schools in Buenos Aires: A Parent's Guide.

You already know about mate if you've read anything about Argentina. The green tea, the gourd, the metal straw, the sharing. What you might not know is how omnipresent it is.

Mate is everywhere. Offices. Parks. Building sites. Bus stops. People carry their mate kit (gourd, thermos of hot water, bag of yerba) like Brits carry their phones. It's consumed in the morning, in the afternoon, at family gatherings, at work, alone, in groups. It's the closest thing Argentina has to a universal daily ritual.

The taste: Bitter and grassy. Earthy. Like green tea's more intense cousin. Most Brits don't love it immediately. Give it a few weeks. Some people add sugar (mate dulce) but in Buenos Aires, drinking it bitter (amargo) is the default. Admitting you prefer it sweet is like admitting you put ketchup on a steak — technically fine, but noted.

The etiquette (abbreviated): The cebador (person preparing) drinks first. The gourd goes around the circle. Drink all the water through the bombilla (straw). Don't touch the bombilla. Say "gracias" only when you've had enough. it means you're finished. These rules are real and observed.

Getting your own kit: You'll want one. Gourd + bombilla: ARS 5,000–15,000 (£3–10) at any kiosko or souvenir shop. Yerba mate (the tea): Taragüí and Rosamonte are the classic brands. Available everywhere.

Malbec (and Argentine Wine Generally)

This is the undisputed highlight of Argentine consumption for British expats. Argentine wine (particularly Malbec from Mendoza) is world-class, and the prices are absurd.

What you'll pay: A very good bottle of Malbec costs ARS 3,000–8,000 (£2–5) at a supermarket. The same quality in a UK wine shop would cost £12–25. A bottle at a restaurant costs ARS 5,000–15,000 (£3.30–10). In London, equivalent quality runs £25–50.

What to drink:

• Entry level: Alamos, Catena, Trapiche — the bottles you find in Tesco for £8–10 are £2–3 here
• Mid-range: Salentein, Zuccardi, Achaval Ferrer — serious wine, £5–10 at retail
• Splash out: Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino, Cobos, Achával Ferrer Finca Altamira — £15–30, and they'd cost £50–100+ in the UK

Beyond Malbec: Try the Bonarda (Argentina's other red. softer, fruitier), Torrontés (a floral white, excellent in summer), and blends from Uco Valley producers doing interesting things.

The key realisation: You will drink better wine, more frequently, at lower cost than at any other point in your life. This alone justifies the move for some people.

Fernet con Coca-Cola

Now the difficult one. Fernet Branca is an Italian amaro. a bitter, herbal digestif that tastes like a medicine cabinet had a fight with a monastery garden. In Italy, it's sipped after dinner. In Argentina, they mix it with Coca-Cola and drink it all night.

How to make it: Fill a tall glass with ice. Pour Fernet to roughly one-third of the glass. Top with Coca-Cola. Stir gently. The ratio is personal — some like it stronger, some weaker.

The taste: Bitter, mentholy, herbal, with the sweetness of Coca-Cola cutting through. Your first reaction will be confusion. Your second reaction might be revulsion. Your third reaction, after a full glass, will be "actually, that's quite good." By your fifth Fernet, you'll be ordering it automatically.

The culture: Fernet con Coca is the drink of Argentine nightlife. parties, boliches (clubs), pre-drinks at someone's flat. It's particularly associated with Córdoba (the central Argentine city that consumes more Fernet per capita than anywhere on earth), but it's universal across the country. Ordering a Fernet signals that you've settled in. It's an integration marker.

For sceptics: Fernet also works as a digestif on its own. a small shot after a heavy meal. The Italians had it right. If you can't handle the mixed drink, try it neat. It's less sweet and more logical.

The Daily Rhythm

Morning: mate (at home, at the office, in the park)

Afternoon merienda: coffee (cortado or café con leche)

Aperitivo (pre-dinner, 7-8pm): wine or a Campari soda

Dinner: wine. always wine with dinner

Night out: Fernet con Coca, or beer if you're at a casual bar

Weekend asado: start with wine, continue with wine, finish with wine

Nobody gets dramatically drunk at dinner. The drinking is steady, social, and integrated into meals and gatherings rather than concentrated into binge sessions. Coming from the UK's Friday-night culture, this feels grown-up and civilised. You'll adjust quickly and wonder why you ever did it differently.

Worth reading next

• British Schools in Buenos Aires: A Parent's Guide
• Making Friends in Buenos Aires: A Realistic Guide for Brits
• Finding Your Parent Community as a British Expat in Buenos Aires