Bariloche with Kids: Planning a Patagonia Family Trip from Buenos Aires

Every British family in Buenos Aires goes to Bariloche eventually. It is the Lake District with snow-capped mountains, the Cotswolds with chocolate shops, and the Scottish Highlands with better weather. My children rate it above Iguazú, above Mendoza, above everything. We have been four times.

Getting there

Flights: 2 hours from Buenos Aires Aeroparque. Aerolíneas Argentinas, Flybondi, JetSmart. Book 4-6 weeks ahead for school holidays. Prices: USD 80-200 return per person.

When to go:

• Summer (December-March): warm, long days, hiking, lake swimming, boat trips. Best overall family experience.
• Winter (June-September): skiing at Cerro Catedral, snow, hot chocolate season. Colder (0-8°C daytime) but magical.
• Autumn (April-May): spectacular foliage, quiet, cheaper. Best photos.
• Spring (October-November): unpredictable weather, fewer tourists, good for budget trips.

How long: 4-5 days is ideal. 3 days is rushed. A week is blissful.

Where to stay with kids

Llao Llao area — upscale, stunning views, 25 km from town. Llao Llao Resort & Golf is the most famous hotel in Patagonia (USD 300-600/night). Not budget, but the grounds, pool, and lake access are extraordinary for children.

Town centre — walking distance to Calle Mitre (chocolate shops), restaurants, and lake. Best for families without a car. Hotels: Panamericano Bariloche (USD 100-200), Hotel Huemul (USD 80-150).

Circuito Chico area — between town and Llao Llao. Cabañas (log cabins) with kitchens and fireplaces. USD 100-250/night. Best for families who want self-catering and outdoor space.

Essential activities with kids

The Circuito Chico

A 60 km scenic loop road west from Bariloche along Lago Nahuel Huapi. Stop-offs:

1. Punto Panorámico — viewpoint over the lake and mountains
2. Bahía López — beach access (summer swimming)
3. Puerto Pañuelo — boat trips depart to Isla Victoria and Bosque de Arrayanes
4. Llao Llao peninsula — walk the chapel trail (30 min, buggy-friendly)
5. Colonia Suiza — Swiss settlement with curanto (traditional pit-cooked feast) and artisan shops
6. Cerro Campanario — chairlift to a viewpoint ranked "best view in the world" by National Geographic. 15 minutes up, spectacular.

Allow a full day. Rent a car (USD 40-80/day) or book a remis (taxi tour, USD 80-150).

Chocolate on Calle Mitre

Bariloche is the chocolate capital of Argentina. Calle Mitre (the main pedestrian street) has a chocolate shop every 20 metres. The children will want to enter all of them.

Top picks:

• Rapa Nui — the biggest and most famous. Excellent hot chocolate.
• Mamuschka — artisan quality, beautiful presentations
• Del Turista — the original, since 1940
• Abuela Goye — homemade style, smaller, charming

Budget: ARS 5,000-10,000 per box of artisan chocolates. Hot chocolate: ARS 3,000-6,000. The children will bankrupt you happily.

Skiing at Cerro Catedral (winter only)

South America's largest ski resort, 20 km from Bariloche.

• Kids' ski school: from age 4. Half-day lessons: ARS 30,000-50,000
• Lift passes: ARS 40,000-80,000/day (children half-price)
• Equipment rental: ARS 15,000-25,000/day per person
• Season: late June to late September (snow permitting)

The skiing is good for beginners and intermediates. Advanced skiers find it limited compared to the Alps. For British children who have never seen snow, it is absolutely magical.

Boat trip to Isla Victoria

A catamaran takes you across Lago Nahuel Huapi to Isla Victoria and the Bosque de Arrayanes (a forest of orange-barked trees). Full day trip. Children love the boat ride and the beach stops.

Cost: ARS 30,000-50,000 per adult, children half-price. Departs from Puerto Pañuelo.

Budget for a family of four (5 days)

Worth reading next

• Mendoza Wine Weekend
• Tigre Day Trip Guide
• Iguazú Falls Trip Guide