Chacarita: Buenos Aires' Rising Neighbourhood for Creative British Expats
Chacarita is Palermo's edgier, cheaper, more creative neighbour. Galleries, craft breweries, street art, and rents that are 30% less than Palermo Soho.
Rosie CarterWriter · Palermo, Buenos Aires
The first time I went to Chacarita, I got lost looking for a brewery someone had recommended. The streets were quieter than Palermo, the buildings were lower, and the sidewalks had that slightly cracked, ungentrified feel. I found the brewery in a converted warehouse on Jorge Newbery. It had excellent beer, a courtyard garden, and not a single tourist. I was hooked.
Chacarita is changing fast. The galleries, restaurants, and studios that cannot afford Palermo rent are setting up here. For British expats who like to be ahead of the curve rather than following it, Chacarita is the neighbourhood of the moment.
Location and character
Chacarita sits northwest of Palermo, west of Colegiales, and north of Villa Crespo. Its centre is the Federico Lacroze train station (Mitre line) and the surrounding commercial grid. The neighbourhood is named after its famous cemetery, the Cementerio de la Chacarita (the largest in Buenos Aires and where Carlos Gardel is buried).
The vibe: working class becoming creative class. Hardware stores next to art galleries. A century-old bakery next to a natural wine bar. Construction workers and graphic designers sharing the same corner cafe.
Why British creatives are arriving
The rent. Studios and apartments are 25-35% cheaper than Palermo:
The warehouse-studio spaces are the draw for artists, photographers, and designers. You can rent a proper workspace with high ceilings and natural light for what a desk at WeWork Palermo costs.
The beer. Chacarita has the best craft beer scene in Buenos Aires. Key breweries: Strange Brewing, Berlina, Juguetes Perdidos, and several micro-taprooms on Jorge Newbery and Dorrego. The quality rivals Bermondsey Beer Mile at half the price.
The art. Street art is everywhere. Galleries are opening in converted houses and garages. The neighbourhood does not try to look artistic; it just is, because the rent allows people to make things instead of just consuming them.
The food. Emerging restaurants that cannot afford Palermo rent: Niño Gordo (Thai-Argentine, extraordinary), Gran Dabbang, and a growing list of neighbourhood wine bars. Quality is high, prices are honest.
Transport
- Federico Lacroze station: Mitre train to Retiro (15 min). Subte B runs along the southern edge.
- Buses: extensive coverage. 39, 42, 87, 111, 140 all pass through.
- Cycling: flat, increasingly good bike lanes.
Who it suits
Young creative professionals who want cheap space, good beer, and emerging culture. Solo British expats who are comfortable with a grittier aesthetic. Couples who find Palermo too polished and Belgrano too suburban.
Not ideal for: families (fewer playgrounds, less polished streets), people who want everything within walking distance (Chacarita is more spread out), or anyone who needs English spoken regularly.
Worth reading next
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Chacarita safe?
Generally yes, with the usual urban precautions. The main commercial streets and the area around Federico Lacroze are well-trafficked. Less polished than Palermo but similar safety profile to Villa Crespo.
How does Chacarita compare to Palermo?
25-35% cheaper, less polished, fewer tourists, better beer scene, more creative energy. Palermo is established and comfortable; Chacarita is emerging and exciting.
Is there good public transport?
Yes. Federico Lacroze station (Mitre train, 15 min to Retiro). Subte B on the southern edge. Multiple bus routes. Good cycling infrastructure.
Where is the best beer in Chacarita?
Strange Brewing, Berlina, and Juguetes Perdidos are the standouts. Jorge Newbery street has several taprooms within walking distance.
Sources & Links
Further reading — legal & visa
We cover the lifestyle side. When it comes to visas, residency, and the paperwork — these guides from Lucero Legal are the most thorough we've found.
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